5 Steps To A Better Motorcycle Loan With A Better Credit Score

It is common knowledge that motorcycle lenders base high importance on your FICO credit scores when approving motorcycle loans. However, what many people overlook is that their FICO credit score can highly impact the term on their motorcycle loan along with the interest rate that is assigned to the motorcycle loan.

In order to gain better motorcycle loan rates it is important that you think of your FICO credit score as a picture of how risky you are to the lender. Your FICO score is essentially a benchmark which lenders use to grade you and assign a risk to you when applying for a motorcycle loan. Since factors about your credit change on a daily basis so can your FICO credit score.

The below 5 steps are designed to help ensure you improve your creditworthiness as your credit score changes. Ultimately these steps should help you obtain better motorcycle loan rates in the future.

Watch Your Debt ? Keep your account balances below 30% of your available credit limit. This is especially true with your credit card because many motorcycle lenders see credit card debt as more risky. If you have a credit card with a $5,000 limit, you should try to keep the balance owed below $1500 when you apply for a motorcycle loan.

Make Your Payment On-time - Paying your current credit bills on-time is one of the biggest factors that contributes to a higher FICO score. Typically when motorcycle lenders see potential customers that do not pay their bills on-time then they either decline them or issue a motorcycle loan at a much higher interest rate. Late payments, collections and bankruptcies have the greatest negative effect on your credit score and how lenders rate you when getting a motorcycle loan.

Establish Credit Early ? Time is very important part of improving your FICO score. Therefore, it is recommended that you start building credit early. Getting one or two credit cards can significantly help build credit. However, the key to this strategy is keeping your purchases small and frequent and paying off the balance every month on time. When establishing credit you should also keep the oldest account on your credit report open in order to lengthen your period of active credit use. The length of your credit history can make a big difference in getting approved for a motorcycle loan.

Avoid Excessive Credit Inquiries ? A credit inquiry normally happens when you apply for credit. If you have a large number of credit inquiries in a short time period many motorcycle lenders see this as a negative since it affects your FICO score. Therefore, when you are applying for credit or shopping for motorcycle loans be careful how many times your credit is accessed. Be advised that sometimes motorcycle dealerships will pre-screen you by asking you for your driver licenses and social security number. Normally this results in a credit inquiry on your credit report. Be prudent in shopping for credit and motorcycle loans.

Check Your Credit Regularly ? In today's age it is easy to get online to check your credit. Checking your free credit report regularly is very important because it can help you uncover inaccuracies that are affecting your FICO credit score. Don't let your credit health suffer due to inaccurate information. If you find an inaccuracy on your credit report contact the creditor associated with the account or the credit reporting agencies to correct it immediately.

Copyright (c) 2005, by Jay Fran This article may be freely distributed as long as the copyright, author's information and the following active live link with anchored text is published with the article:

<a target="_new" href="http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com">Motorcycle Loans ?Bankruptcy Motorcycle Financing ? Used Motorcycle Loans</a>

About The Author: <BR> Jay Fran is a successful author at <a target="_new" href="http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com">http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com</a> - A comprehensive resource to compare low interest rate motorcycle financing, military motorcycle loans, after bankruptcy motorcycle loans and new & used online motorcycle buying tips for Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda and more.

Mini Moto Tips

These are some quick adjustments and tips for the B1 liquid cooled minimoto that I have found helpful.

Extra heat protection:

To protect the bike I've put some aluminium tape on the inside of the fairing at the closest point to the exhaust and on the underside of the fuel tank. I?ve done this because the engine gets so hot I wanted to protect the fairing from melting, and it doesn't hurt to protect the fuel tank for the same reasons!

My cooling system tips:

When you run out of cooling liquid for your B1 rep, use is distilled water which is available at your local garage, add some food colouring to it so that you can easily tell the level and away you go.

Only fill the reservoir to a quarter full, this is easily enough coolant and it leaves room for the pressure.

Once you have filled the coolant reservoir, there is often air locks in the system. To get rid of these start the bike and allow it to warm up, then bounce the bike (gently) on its back tyre with the bike vertical. Do this a few times, this should get rid of the air locks in the system and prevent overheating. The coolants level may need to be topped up now.

Where not to ride:

Hi just bought my new B1 air cooled from you guys. Thanks it's a great bike. A quick word of advice for your other customers. DO NOT RIDE YOUR MINI MOTO ON THE ROAD. My friend (who also rides a mini moto, but on tracks where they are supposed to be ridden!) is a police man (boooo!) and the law is very strict:

The driver or rider of a motorised board or cycle on a road could face heavy fines, endorsement of licence, disqualification and in the case of dangerous driving, up to 2 years imprisonment.

Remember that the term road includes not only a carriageway but also pavements and verges and also any highway which encompasses footpaths, bridleways and by-ways.

It can also include privately owned roads to which the public have access and has in some cases included car parks?

Car park warriors beware!!!???

Here's a good tip. Before riding your mini moto you will need to make sure that your wheels and chain are aligned. Here's how. Loosen the bolts on the back wheel so that you can move it. Place a piece of perfectly straight wood (I used a meter stick) up against the front wheel. When the front wheel is straight the meter stick should be flush against both the front of the tyre and the back. Then it's a simple case of lining up the back wheel. The chain should now also be straight.

Changing the gearing on your mini moto is simple. A bigger front sprocket combined with a smaller rear sprocket creates a smaller ratio, this means that the mini moto will have better accelelaration but less top spead. A smaller front sprocket with a bigger back sprocket will give your mini moto a better top speed but slower acceleration.

Here are the possible variations of gearing: The lower the ratio the faster acceleration. The higher ratio, the better the top speed.

8/54 6.75>1
8/56 7>1
8/58 7.25>1
8/60 7.5>1
7/54 7.714285714>1
8/62 7.75>1
7/56 8>1
8/64 8>1
7/56 8>1
8/66 8.25>1
7/58 8.285714286>1
8/68 8.5>1
7/60 8.571428571>1
8/70 8.75>1
7/62 8.857142857>1
8/72 9>1
6/54 9>1
7/64 9.142857143>1
8/74 9.25>1
6/56 9.333333333>1
7/66 9.428571429>1
8/76 9.5>1
6/58 9.666666667>1
7/68 9.714285714>1
8/78 9.75>1
6/60 10>1
7/70 10>1
7/72 10.28571429>1
6/62 10.33333333>1
7/74 10.57142857>1
6/64 10.66666667>1
7/76 10.85714286>1
6/66 11>1
7/78 11.14385714>1
6/68 11.33333333>1
6/70 11.66666667>1
6/72 12>1
6/74 12.33333333>1
6/76 12.66666667>1
6/78 13>1

I tried 7/56 with my B1 Rep at GP Karting, I think that this is just about right for that track as it has lotts of tight corners. Might go to Stretton soon so I can try my 7/68 setup. This should be good for the straights however it may take a while to get up to speed!!

Matt Tong has been importing and riding Mini Motos for two years. For expert advice and Mini Moto information please visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.minimotosandmore.com">http://www.minimotosandmore.com</a>

Know Your Mini Moto

The Mini Moto is a small scale replica of the World Super Bikes used by the likes of Valentino Rossi and ex champion Carl Fogarty. The Mini Moto comes equipped with either a two stroke air or water cooled engine which are, depending on the model, capable of speeds of up to 60Mph.

In this article I will underline the finer points of the components that make these speeds possible.

The two Stroke Engine

The two stroke engine produces more hp per pound than the four stroke engine. The two stroke engine consists of three moving parts, the piston, the rod and the crank. The piston acts as valve that opens and closes the intake and exhaust ports that are located on the walls of the cylinder. Unlike the four stroke engine that fires only every other time of the pistons movement, the two stoke engine fires every time the piston reaches the top of its travel. This means that the time spent generating power is doubled in the two stroke engine than that of the four stroke engine, as there is no engine coasting during passive cycles. This is the main reason that the two stroke engine can rev more highly and produce more power (for its size) that the four stroke.

Fuel

The two stroke engine needs to be run on a mixture of petrol and two stroke oil. This is so that the engine is kept lubricated whilst in use.

99% of all starting problems are caused by fuel problems. These can stem from bad or old fuel and improperly mixed fuel (please see mixing chart). Do not use fuels that contain alcohol, as the can cause you bike to run 'lean'. Be advised some racing fuels contain alcohol and are best avoided.. We recommend that you use normal petrol for a garage and a quality two stroke oil.

A mixture that is too lean I.e not enough two stroke oil can damage your mini moto's engine as the moving parts are not properly lubricated. This can cause the engine to seize. However a mixture that is too rich can choke the engine and effect the performance and cause starting problems. You can tell if your mini moto is running too richly by the plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and the lack of performance. A rich mixture (25:1) is needed to lubricate the engine during the 'run in' period, you may experience a lack of performance during this period. The pocket bike may run more slowly and acceleration can be sluggish, however when you change to a mixture of 50:1 you will really notice a difference. The leaner mix ignites in the combustion chamber faster and with a more explosive force than the richer mix. This means higher revs which means more power and acceleration.

We recommend that a fuel mixture of 25:1 is used to 'run in' you mini moto, and a mixture of 50:1 is used thereafter.

'Running in'

Your mini moto should be 'run in' for the first 3-4 tanks of fuel. During this period we recommend that you use a fuel mixture of 25:1. This means a mixture that is made up of 25 parts petrol to 1 part of two stroke oil. During the 'running in' period be careful to not rev the engine to its maximum as this can damage the engine. The 'running in' period will allow the moving parts to become well oiled and the clutch and brakes to 'bed' themselves in. After you have run the minimoto on this fuel mixture for 3-4 tanks, check the chain and tighten accordingly, check the tyre pressure, tighten the bolts on the brakes, forks and wheels. You may also need to readjust the throttle settings to allow for the higher revs that changing to a leaner fuel mix produces. The bike should now be ready for a fuel mixture of 50:1.

Clutch

The mini moto uses a centrifugal clutch to power the drive the sprocket, which in turn drives the back wheel of your mini moto.

When you start your mini moto the clutch spins as the engine ticks over . The clutch is engaged when you pull back on the throttle. The increase in speed of revolution of the clutch makes the clutch expand and grip the inside of the clutch bell which turns the sprocket that drives the back wheel of your pocket bike.

The clutch can be set up in different ways depending on the type of performance that you want from your minimoto. Adjustable clutches are not standard on mini moto's but an after market Polani or Blata style adjustable clutch can be used in your new mini moto. These allow the rider to adjust the mini moto's set up in according to their preference. Setting the clutch to engage too late when the engine has built up too much power may cause the clutch to slip and never fully engage. This can result in excessive wearing. However setting the clutch to engage too early, before the power has built up in the engine can cause your pocket bike to 'bog down', resulting in slow acceleration. The perfect set up is to get the clutch to engage just as the engine has built enough power to rocket the mini moto away, but without making the clutch slip, this is achievable through trial and error.

Spark Plug

Making sure that your spark plug is fresh is important in a two stroke mini moto engine. You can tell a lot from the colour of the spark plug. The top part of your spark plug is covered in ceramic insulator which, when brand new is white. This part of the spark plug can change colour according to how your engine is running. The plug should appear as a nice tan colour when the engine is running perfectly, this indicates complete combustion. A greyish or white colour indicates that the engine is running too lean which can result in engine damage. In this case you should clean and check your fuel system for any obstruction, check your fuel mixture, check for loose intake manifold bolts and carburettor mounting leeks, faulty gaskets and leaking crank seals. Anywhere that your engine could potentially leek and suck in fresh air can be the source of a lean condition.

A blackened or oily spark plug indicates improper combustion and is the result of running too rich. This can be caused by too much oil in the mixture or the spark plug could be faulty and misfiring. Check the fuel mixture and replace the spark plug.

Air Filter

Your new mini moto is equipped with an air filter. Some bikes such as the B1 Origami rep liquid cooled and the Mini Dirt bike have a 'cone' style K and N style air filter. The 2005 mk2 mini moto and the B1 Origami Replica air cooled bikes have a standard mini moto air filter. Both air filters purify the intake of air that is sucked into the carburettor. This means that the air filter should be cleaned regularly as the mini moto's performance can begin to suffer as the engine can become starved of air if the air filter is choked with debris. To reach the air filter, remove the bikes bottom fairing, remove the protective cover by unscrewing the holding screws. Clean the air filter in petrol but make sure that the filter is dry before reattaching to you mini moto.

Tyres

The tyres on your mini moto are filled with air (pneumatic). Please consult your mini moto handbook for the appropriate psi. It is important to check the tyre pressure regularly, an under inflated tyre will affect the performance of your mini moto, acceleration can become sluggish and cornering can become dangerous.

Chain

Before riding your mini moto you need to make sure that the front and back sprockets are aligned and that the chain is perfectly straight running between them. Once you have established this make sure that the chain is tensioned correctly (please see your mini moto handbook). To test the tension of the chain you can manually push the pocket bike, if you hear a 'pinging' or 'popping' sound the chain is too loose. If the chain is noisy and starts to bind the chain is too tight. Make sure that the chain is well oiled. The chain needs to be oiled before every ride.

Gearing

The gearing of you mini moto is dictated by the number of the teeth on the front sprocket and on the back sprocket. The sprockets can be changed as an easy way to manipulate top end speed and acceleration, quite like changing gear on a mountain bike. A front sprocket with more teeth will improve acceleration, however the top end speed will be reduced. A larger rear sprocket will produce a higher top speed but acceleration will suffer. The gearing on your bike can be adjusted in accordance for the track you are intending to ride I.e. a small track with a lot of bends will suit gearing for improved acceleration, however a track with long straights will require a mini moto that is geared for a higher top speed.

Throttle

The throttle on your new mini moto is a 'twist grip' style throttle. When you twist the throttle the throttle cable is pulled back revving the engine. It is important to keep this cable free from obstacles and clean. If the throttle begins to feel 'loose' of 'gives', the tension of the cable can be adjusted via the adjusting screw.

Brakes

The brake system comprises of brake levers, brake cables, brake callipers and brake discs.

The brakes on your mini moto are operated by levers found on the handle bars. The right hand brake controls the front brake, and the left controls the back brake. Pulling on the handle pulls the brake cable which in turn pulls the lever located on the bake calliper. This action pushes the brake discs towards each other. This creates friction on the brake disc which slows down or stops the bike.

The brakes can be adjusted in the following ways.

The brake cable can be tensioned using the adjustment screw found on the brake lever. Unscrew the locking nut, twist the screw to reach the desired tension. Re screw the locking nut.

This is a two person job. Adjust the screw on the hand brake so that is at the end of its travel. Undo the clamp that holds the brake cable on the lever located on the brake calliper. One person needs to push the lever forward as far as it will, the second person needs to pull back on the brake cable and re fasten the clamp. The crake cable will now be highly tensioned.

Pull Start

To start the mini moto pull slowly to turn the fly wheel. This pumps some fuel around the engine, which lubricates the moving parts. Pull the pull start firmly in order to start the engine. Important, do not pull the cord to the end of its run as it can break. If the mini moto does not start check the choke and the throttle cable.

Choke

The choke controls the amount of air that is allowed into the air/fuel mix. The choke is adjusted via a lever located on the side and back of the engine. The choke is off when the lever is down, and on when the lever is up. When you start the mini moto the choke should be on, when the mini moto is warm and ready to ride the choke needs to be off.

Carburettor

It is recommend that any adjustments to the carburettor are made by a professional. The carburettor pumps and mixes the fuel and air. The small diaphragms, orifices and ports mix the air and fuel very precisely, this process demands clean fresh fuel.

Jet

The jet can be adjusted by the screw located in the access hole to the right of the choke lever. The jet is adjusted by the manufacture however the conditions of where you wish to ride may be different, which means that you will need to make adjustments. Turning the screw clockwise will make the bike run with a leaner mixture, and counter clockwise will richen the mixture. Only adjust the screw 1 tern a at time and then test the mini moto, this is trail and error. Please note that it is best to find the optimum setting for performance and then run a slightly richer mixture as a mix that is too lean can seize the engine.

Matt Tong has been importing and riding Mini Motos for over two years. For more information please visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.minimotosandmore.com">http://www.minimotosandmore.com</a>

Fuel Cells Motorcycles, Trucks, Tanks, ATVs and Fire Hazards from Heat Exchanges

We have heard a whole lot of talk about fuel cells and of course it is a worthy endeavor. Portable generators, cars, transportation industry, Power generators, Ships, etc. can benefit. However in a mobile application such as a shuttle bus, car, truck, train, tractor, motor scooter or even a Segway air-cushioned platform mover, there is the problem of heat. The heat occurs on transfer of fuel. So if we are talking about a portable application the heat can make steam and the steam can be used for additional power needed also. In an off road application when we are in places of drought and extreme fire hard there is a significant problem which needs to be better addressed with the material sciences to control the heat. Everyone knows that 2-cycle motorcycles get hot and can cause fires if you are not careful.

The hydrogen cell problem with it's temperatures could be significantly worse. In larger vehicles there have been ways to mitigate this, with additional insulation panels, however in a small off road vehicle or ATV, the problem becomes more significant. When I speak of ATV, I mean All-terrain vehicle, not the Fuel Cell term of Advanced Technology Vehicle. At Texas A and M. they are working on just such a project.

When we are talking motorcycles, and ATVs the cooling system is the major obstacle, wouldn't you know it. There is always some hitch and it does appear that this small obstacle is in fact being taken care of through new material sciences and it is critical indeed as we have seen urban heat of five plus degrees within various regions of the US due to concrete and asphalt without one fuel cell car and we know that reciprocal engines of gasoline motors run about 300 or so degrees, which is a lot less than the conversion rate to pure hydrogen? Well these engineering barriers are being pummeled currently as the innovators in America accept the challenge and refuse to go back, such is the nature of the American Spirit, Never ever, ever, ever Give Up. Winston Churchill could have been an American, he certainly talked like one and this current situation could have used such talk. And of course he comes from the same stock as many of us do. Well it appears many University Researchers in this country may just beat President Bush's cautious commitment to bring this technology to the forefront by 2012. We are now seeing the strides of innovation take hold. From the Spinglass Scooters to potential Segway Models.

Now then, the components of these vehicles cannot be made of lightweight composite. Some types of composite unfortunately give off Cyanide Gas when they burn. We of course have been learning this from the F-117 Stealth crashes and the potentiality of the 7E7 half composite airliners. So what material do you make these units out of which is safe for anything from a ride on lawn mower to a laptop computer 90 watt power system. Even Plastics melt and give off some pretty toxic substances? Ceramic Coatings or glass coatings on top of other materials, indeed may be one solution. As a matter of fact this is just about the only known solution for the exhaust and catalyst systems (which run extremely hot and glow inside) in current exhaust systems. Many think it can be applied to the heat issues of hydrogen cells as well and of course after reading many articles and studies in the Ceramics Industry, I believe there is ample opportunity there.

http://www.ceramicindustry.com/CDA/Article...0,27484,00.html

We have been studying these situations for our company in the Mobile Oil Change Business figuring if we cannot change the oil in the future as a business we can replace filters and membranes with re-usable ceramic materials which maybe found in the new technologies associated with fuel cells. But where will all these filters be discharged? After all Glass takes quite a while to decompose rendering it's half life closer than that of uranium to lead, then from Ceramic filter to dirt? Will future archeologists dig up these nifty ceramic filters in old garbage dumps in the decomposed semi-crude oil remenance and wonder what on Earth we used them for and proving that we were indeed a species of significant cognitive worth? As we look at ceramic coatings such as Adsil (google it to learn more) and others we realize that they decrease corrosion from things like the nasty Magnesium Chlorides put on roads in the North during ice and snowstorms.

Will we need to coat the entire car with glass to prevent fire? Will this mean you will wash your car with Windex? Is glass cleaning services a future growth industry then, since more things will be made from glass including much of the coating on a car. Will this foil the efforts of GM, Ford, Honda and Toyota in planned obsolescence? In other words whoever is making the cars, whether it is GM-Ballard partnership, Eaton-Ford Partnership or a Multi-National Foreign Conglomerate of China, Japan, Korea, US then will cars last so long people will buy fewer of them or will the Chinese demand for oil drive the prices of crude up so fast and furious that the whole world will begin to switch to fuel cells at once during a last hurrah of overbearing gas and diesel prices. Cars which last too long mean consumer will not continue to buy new cars which on average now is 3.1 years in the middle class of America. Now do not go out and buy Windex Stock right now. No matter what this is still many years off.

You will see in the future that many companies and even military, NASA and others use ceramic coatings on equipment to prolong life. Corrosion issues are serious in all sectors, including shipping containers, truck chassis, braking systems, railroad, automotive, even a rusty lawn-mower with many plastic parts from your local Home Depot, Lowes or Wal*Mart.

Ceramic coatings even applied at 5 mils are enough to seal the aluminum pores enough to solve basic corrosion problems. Corrosion control is especially important to military equipment after wartime. Sure it provides jobs to make new tanks, humvees and armored personnel carriers, but there maybe budget concerns as well to think about. After all some of the T-34 tanks used by our enemy were how old? Still running, perhaps with corrosion controls of ceramics, the ones left could be put in museums forever? A remainder of the Human Species and her need to wage war, perhaps an innate characteristic which may eventually be bread out of our genome, but probably not likely soon. Hydrogen cell tanks, yes there are many such projects going on now.

What will the routine maintenance service companies look like in the future? How will they maintain their ROIs and Proformas, forward looking statements and spreadsheets, Warren Buffet style balance sheets, quarterly profits and shareholder's equity? These companies to harvest continued cash flow in these cleaning, maintenance and coating industries will need to drastically modify their procedures. As we see from this weeks devastating Hurricane Charley, we need to pay attention to the global warming problems as they are real and when you turn up the heat, the surrounding atmosphere will notice and when it comes to mother nature, she is quite sure of what she is doing.

I hope you have enjoyed this provocative topic and interesting study on Fuel Cells for motorcycles, trucks, trains, tanks, ATVs, ships, etc. as it pertains to global warming, urban heat, Fire Hazards from heat exchanges and risks associated with these new technologies.

The future is going to be a most excellent place to live as long as we pay attention to what we are doing on the way to get there.

"Lance Winslow" - If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; <a target="_new" href="http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs">www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs</a>

Motorcycle Parts - OEM or Aftermarket ?

This is always a difficult one to answer when shopping for motorcycle parts and I firmly believe that each one of us must decide what's best for our bikes AFTER carefully evaluating each of the possibilities.

For me?

Well... it really depends on what I am looking for - just replacement or improvement - , the availability of the part, my budget and other things. Sometimes I buy OEM, others aftermarket motorcycle parts.

Keep reading. You will find some views that will hopefully help you decide the next time you shop for motorcycle parts.

What a heck are OEM parts??

OEM parts stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer parts which not necessarily mean the OM (Original Manufacturer) actually produced them. You know, many motorcycle and automobile manufacturers don't manufacture each of the parts used in their vehicles. They frequently have the parts designed and manufactured by outside independent companies and then, install them in their machines or put them in their own boxes to be sold as OEM parts!

Good to know when buying OEM Motorcycle Parts:

When you buy OEM Motorcycle Parts you are buying the exact same original part the manufacturer used to build your motorcycle, that means:

>> Same performance as the part installed in your motorcycle right now. The part won't be better nor worse than the original part you want to replace.

>> Normally OEM parts a more (in some cases MUCH more) expensive than aftermarket parts.

>> Motorcycle and car agencies clerks will normally tell you OEM Parts are higher quality and the best option for replacements. Is this true? Well sometimes it is, sometimes it's not.

>> Normally after a certain period of time, the manufacturer will allow the company that originally designed/produced the part to sell it in their own box at a considerably lower cost, making it: an Aftermarket OEM part! :-)

>> BE CAREFUL if your bike is still in its guarantee period make sure you use only OEM parts and have them installed by authorized mechanics. If you don't do so, you will probably void the guarantee.

What about Aftermarket parts??

Aftermarket parts should perform as well as OEM parts but are produced by companies other than the original manufacturer(s).

Things to know when buying Aftermarket Motorcycle Parts:

>> MAKE SURE YOUR GUARANTEE PERIOD IS OVER. In many cases, you can VOID your guarantee if you have an aftermarket part installed by an unauthorized mechanic in your machine. I know I said it before, but it's worth repeating; I happened to me! :-(

>> Equivalent aftermarket Suzuki motorcycle parts are normally cheaper than OEM parts. Sometimes up to 70% cheaper!

>> Aftermarket parts can have lower,the same or higher quality than the original.

>> When buying aftermarket parts make sure you are getting AT LEAST the same quality as the OEM part. If possible try to get some reviews about brands and performance. You can do it in the Internet, with your favorite mechanic or with fellow riders.

>> If you are looking for high performance parts and devices, you know the kind: carbon fiber, titanium, aerospace aluminum parts and gizmos, well you will probably find them as aftermarket motorcycle parts.

OEM or aftermarket motorcycle parts, sooner or later you will be shopping for them...

Enjoy the ride!

Daniel Levy

Daniel Levy is the owner and contributing writer of <a target="_new" href="http://www.Japanese-Motorcycles-Only.com">http://www.Japanese-Motorcycles-Only.com</a> . He loves motorcycles and Web development. For more great info visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/">http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/</a>

If you need motorcycle parts, check out BikeBandit: my favorite online store for motorcycle parts. You will find a full review of their business in this page:<a target="_new" href="http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/bike-bandit.html">http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/bike-bandit.html</a>

Ghost Minimoto Moto GP Reps ? What Are They?

What are Mini moto's? A Minimoto is a miniature version of a real GP racing motorcycle; it just doesn't go as fast as one. There pocket bikes are available in many different makes and styles, many of which look just like real racing bikes but in a miniture version such as those found on GhostRacingSeries website.

Who Makes Minimoto's? There is many Mini Moto models and manufacturers. The more expensive pocketbikes and professional bikes are built in Czechoslovakia by Blata and GRC of Italy. Other well known brands are Polini and ZPF.

Recently manufacturers from China have made a big difference to minimoto racing sport. With mass production making minimoto's more affordable and much more popular. Here in the UK minimoto racing is one of the fastest growing sports. We occasionally hear people say that the Chinese bikes are rubbish and quickly fall apart however companies like http://www.ghostracingseries.com supply exceptionally high quality replica minimoto's. These minimoto's start from just ?150 each!

Styles of Minimoto's? As the market grows, lots of trends are set. Amongst the most popular is the Ghost Racing Series Moto GP reps. They come in various styles including Rizla Moto Gp Mini moto, Camel Moto Gp Mini moto, Telefonica Moto Gp Mini moto, Repsol Moto Gp Mini moto, Shell Adavance Moto Gp Mini moto.

Whats different with the Ghost Racing Series minimoto's? Ghost Minimoto's come with the following extras: Over ?100 of Fitted extra's come as standard including: Performace Exhaust ? Expansion Chamber + Polished Silencer K&N Style Performance Air Filter Upgraded Heavy Duty Chain & Sprockets Race Quality Reed Valves Uprated Brake Calipers + Thicker Brake Discs Upgraded Forks with Alloy Wheel Clamps High Quality Welding & Stronger Frame Alloy Brake Levers Alloy Yorks High Compression Engine with 19mm Transfer Ports for High Revs Soft Grip Performance Hand Grips High Quality Fairings Painted Hubs & Polished Rims

http://www.GhostRacingSeries.com

<a target="_new" href="http://www.GhostRacingSeries.com">http://www.GhostRacingSeries.com</a>

Motorcycle Parts - OEM or Aftermarket ?

This is always a difficult one to answer when shopping for motorcycle parts and I firmly believe that each one of us must decide what's best for our bikes AFTER carefully evaluating each of the possibilities.

For me?

Well... it really depends on what I am looking for - just replacement or improvement - , the availability of the part, my budget and other things. Sometimes I buy OEM, others aftermarket motorcycle parts.

Keep reading. You will find some views that will hopefully help you decide the next time you shop for motorcycle parts.

What a heck are OEM parts??

OEM parts stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer parts which not necessarily mean the OM (Original Manufacturer) actually produced them. You know, many motorcycle and automobile manufacturers don't manufacture each of the parts used in their vehicles. They frequently have the parts designed and manufactured by outside independent companies and then, install them in their machines or put them in their own boxes to be sold as OEM parts!

Good to know when buying OEM Motorcycle Parts:

When you buy OEM Motorcycle Parts you are buying the exact same original part the manufacturer used to build your motorcycle, that means:

>> Same performance as the part installed in your motorcycle right now. The part won't be better nor worse than the original part you want to replace.

>> Normally OEM parts a more (in some cases MUCH more) expensive than aftermarket parts.

>> Motorcycle and car agencies clerks will normally tell you OEM Parts are higher quality and the best option for replacements. Is this true? Well sometimes it is, sometimes it's not.

>> Normally after a certain period of time, the manufacturer will allow the company that originally designed/produced the part to sell it in their own box at a considerably lower cost, making it: an Aftermarket OEM part! :-)

>> BE CAREFUL if your bike is still in its guarantee period make sure you use only OEM parts and have them installed by authorized mechanics. If you don't do so, you will probably void the guarantee.

What about Aftermarket parts??

Aftermarket parts should perform as well as OEM parts but are produced by companies other than the original manufacturer(s).

Things to know when buying Aftermarket Motorcycle Parts:

>> MAKE SURE YOUR GUARANTEE PERIOD IS OVER. In many cases, you can VOID your guarantee if you have an aftermarket part installed by an unauthorized mechanic in your machine. I know I said it before, but it's worth repeating; I happened to me! :-(

>> Equivalent aftermarket Suzuki motorcycle parts are normally cheaper than OEM parts. Sometimes up to 70% cheaper!

>> Aftermarket parts can have lower,the same or higher quality than the original.

>> When buying aftermarket parts make sure you are getting AT LEAST the same quality as the OEM part. If possible try to get some reviews about brands and performance. You can do it in the Internet, with your favorite mechanic or with fellow riders.

>> If you are looking for high performance parts and devices, you know the kind: carbon fiber, titanium, aerospace aluminum parts and gizmos, well you will probably find them as aftermarket motorcycle parts.

OEM or aftermarket motorcycle parts, sooner or later you will be shopping for them...

Enjoy the ride!

Daniel Levy

Daniel Levy is the owner and contributing writer of <a target="_new" href="http://www.Japanese-Motorcycles-Only.com">http://www.Japanese-Motorcycles-Only.com</a> . He loves motorcycles and Web development. For more great info visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/">http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/</a>

If you need motorcycle parts, check out BikeBandit: my favorite online store for motorcycle parts. You will find a full review of their business in this page:<a target="_new" href="http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/bike-bandit.html">http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/bike-bandit.html</a>

Avoiding Excessive or Uneven Front Tire Wear

All rubber tires wear down over time, whether they're on a motorcycle or automobile. However, you want to watch out for uneven or excessive wear, both of which can cause serious problems for motorcycle riders. If you pay attention to the following causes of excessive and uneven wear, you will extend the life of your tires and keep yourself safe:

1. Improper Tire Pressure - We have all heard about the importance of maintaining proper tire pressure at all times. Improper air pressure in your tire is a big reason for many tire problems and failures. Be sure your tires have the recommended pressure in them at all times.

2. Humped Roads -- Most roads are "humped" slightly in the middle or banked away from the center to allow rain and water to drain off. However, this hump can have a dramatic effect on one side of your motorcycle's front tire because the side of the tire closer to the center of the road will wear faster. There's not much you can do about this, and it can become very visible if you ride a lot. So be aware of this phenomenon and check the left side of your front tire often.

3. Disproportionate Cupping -- Cupping is a normal phenomenon on rubber tires that occurs when the brakes are applied. However, excessive use of the front brake can produce disproportionate cupping, when one side of the tire is more cupped than the other. Using the front brake will naturally put more pressure and force on the front tire to make it stop, thereby using up more rubber.

4. Wheel Alignment - While this problem is not as common on motorcycles as it is on cars, it causes uneven tire wear. Any number of things can cause wheel misalignment on motorcycles, including getting into a fender bender, riding over potholes, jumping over sidewalks and curbs, etc. It is a good idea to have your wheel alignment checked out at least once a year to make sure that a misalignment isn't unevenly wearing your front tire.

5. Shock Absorbers -- A bad shock absorber can wreak havoc on the handling of your bike and promotes uneven front tire wear. So make sure your shocks are in good shape.

6. Improper Loading -- The final major problem to keep in mind is improper loading of your bike, which causes your front tire to wear unevenly. Proper weight distribution is essential to being able to handle and steer your bike safely. Loading down one side of your saddlebag with tools or equipment can keep you from riding as vertically as possible, creating uneven tire wear.

So check your tires frequently, and keep these causes in mind if you begin noticing excessive or uneven front tire wear. Having the knowledge and taking the proper precautions will not only make you a safer rider but will prolong the life of your bike's tires.

Jeff Sinason aka Tools - is the owner <a target="_new" href="http://www.bikerwares.com">Bikerwares.com</a>. Being an avid biker, he spends most of his time working on his web site and touring the country.

Welcome To The World Of ?Upside Down? Motorcycle Loans!

With the depreciation on motorcycles being so enormous after they are driven off the showroom floor, the potential for a buyer owing more on their motorcycle loan than the bike is worth it quite high. Owing more on your bike than it is worth is often referred to as the world of &quot;up side down&quot;.

Many people finding themselves in this situation discover that financial lessons are sometimes the hardest and most expensive to learn. Motorcycle loans of more than 48 months (especially without a down payment) put you in the position of owing more than the value of the bike.

Let's take a look at this phenomenon.

First, the interest calculation your lender uses can make a big difference in your situation, especially in the first 18 months. There are two primary interest calculations, pre-computed (combined with rule of 78) and simple interest.

Pre-computed interest combined with Rule of 78, is typically the worst situation for a buyer because most of the interest is paid in the first 24 months. Therefore, in the first 24 months little of the monthly payment has gone towards paying down principal. If a buyer wishes to sell or trade in the motorcycle within this timeframe they will likely find themselves owing more than the bike is worth. Statistics show that the average owner trades in every 18-24 months.

Simple interest on the other hand, is much more favorable for buyers since interest accrues on the balance of the loan. However, buyers that extend their loans for greater than 48 months can still find themselves up side down with simple interest. This is especially true if a down payment is not made. The reason this occurs is that the motorcycle depreciates faster than the principal is paid; leaving the balance owed to the lender to be more than the bike can be sold for.

A common view that many people have is that they will just surrender their motorcycle to the lender if they are caught in an &quot;up side down&quot; position. If you are considering this option don't! Your worries do not just end after your bike is surrendered or repossessed; in fact they are just beginning. The lender will sell your bike at an auction for much less than it is worth. You will still owe the difference between the amount you owed on your loan and the amount the motorcycle sold for at auction. So if you owe $5000 and the bike sells for $1500, you still are responsible for owing the lender $3500. To make it worse lenders may tack on hefty auction fees which you will owe as well. So the net result is that you are now responsible for making monthly payments on a bike you can no longer ride.

So what steps can you take to prevent from being caught &quot;up side down&quot;?

1. Find a lender that uses simple interest. Avoid lenders that use pre-computed / Rule of 78 interest calculations.

2. Always try to put money down on your purchase.

3. Try to avoid motorcycle loans that extend past 36 months.

Jay Fran is a author and publisher for a website that specializes in <a target="_new" href="http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com">Motorcycle Loans: High Risk OK</a>. A comprehensive resource on simple interest motorcycle financing, poor credit, new, used and bad credit motorcycle loans.

Auctions and Car Transport: Everything You Need To Know

Everyone has wanted to sell a car at some point and in the age of Internet auctions, there are more options than ever when it comes to selling your car whether it's an '05, '78 or a '20. With this ever expanding world of options comes the need to make delivery after you've sold the vehicle and that requires a car transport service.

Depending on the auction service, you can list that shipment of the item is completely up to the buyer's discretion or offer a method of transportation to fold into the final price.

The first is often more preferable to buyers because it allows them to shop various car transporters themselves to find the one that suits them best. However, if you decide to fold the cost of the shipment along with a hand picked transporter into the auction of your car, there are some things you need to do.

First, you need to narrow down your selection of transporters in some fashion that incorporates not only their price ranges but also their reliability and service records. Remember, that by folding in the selection of the transporter to the auction, you are in some way taking responsibility for the shipment both before you deliver it to the transporter and after.

Second, to simplify the matters with regard to the auction, make sure you have all the information about your selected transporter at hand. Include this information in the auction information. When buyers look through potential cars to buy on auctions they are as concerned about the cars they are looking at as to how they might get there.

Some buyers may not want to use the transporter you have selected; you may or may not wish to include that as an option to turn down on the buyer's part.

Finally, when you are ready to list the car as well as the transporter information, be sure to include a series of price quotes from the transporter from the car's location to major hubs on both coasts, the mid-west and include both upper and lower sides of the coasts, mid-Atlantic and so on.

This will allow the buyer to guess based on their proximity to one of those locations what the cost will likely be. Always be sure to list that the quotes are not exact and are not final until the buyer's shipping information is received.

It may seem like more work than it's worth to go through all of this prior to listing the car that you want to sell, it will pay off at the auction's closing. As the seller, you simply wait to confirm where the car is being transported to and confirm a final quote from the transportation company.

Once the seller receives the payment from the buyer they can get the car to the transportation company of their choice and not have to worry if the buyer chooses a transporter that will be a hassle for you the seller.

While most buyers and sellers work in fairly cooperative relations in order to receive the item sold and the payment for the item, sometimes having the game plan set will save a lot of time.

Discover vital information and advice about car and auto transport services. Find out what you must do, and what you must not do. Click <a target="_new" href="http://www.auto-transport-101.com/">http://www.auto-transport-101.com/</a>

Workings of a Motorcycle Muffler Suspension

Motorcycles are becoming more popular because of its convenience and relatively inexpensive cost compared to automobiles. They are capable of the same speeds as cars and can also be licensed for use on public highways.

Owners and drivers of motorcycles opt for these motorized, two-wheeled vehicles as transportation because aside from it being an inexpensive alternative to cars, they can be easily maneuvered and they deliver higher fuel economy. In addition, they take less space for parking. No wonder a lot of Asian countries have more motorcycles than cars.

And for drivers who love speed, motorcycles are great vehicles because they can accelerate more quickly than an automobile. Nevertheless, motorcycles are not for everybody. Riding and controlling this vehicle requires skill and extra caution especially during difficult maneuverings on wet or slick surfaces.

But when you do get the urge to ride a motorcycle, you would want to learn a lot of information on the vehicle, like "Where do I start?"; "How do I start my motorcycle?"; "Do I need to shift gears?" "If so, how do I do it?" And most of all, any beginner would want to know first the makings and basic parts of a motorcycle and how they work.

One author wrote that to give steps on how to start a motorcycle on a hill involves a tremendous number of motorcycle parts. And it doesn't matter if its aftermarket motorcycle parts or OEM, once a new rider begins to learn to ride it, he or she must also be able to identify which part is which, or how to operate the basic procedures for riding a motorcycle.

One of the most important and popular part of a motorcycle is the muffler. Other than the tires, the body, the most well known part I believe is the muffler. The motorcycle muffler includes all pipes and baffles needed to reduce, if not quiet, the exhaust noise. It is also used to match with the carburetor jetting. Most often than not, factory mufflers are changed to aftermarket pipes to tailor to the specifications of the user according to sound and performance.

However, not all motorcycles have the same parts in the same places. Each motorcycle, whether they have aftermarket motorcycle parts or OEM, has its own names for its parts and even the way that the parts are interconnected may be different. It's up to you, the rider, to identify these parts according to the model and brand of the motorcycle you're going to use.

Granny's Mettle is a 30-something, professional web content writer. She has created various web content on a diverse range of topics, which includes digital printing topics, medical news, as well as legal issues. Her articles are composed of reviews, suggestions, tips and more for the printing and designing industry.

Her thoughts on writing: "Writing gives me pleasure? pleasure and excitement that you have created something to share with others. And with the wide world of the Internet, it gives me great satisfaction that my articles reach more people in the quickest time you could imagine."

On her spare time, she loves to stay at home, reading books on just about any topic she fancies, cooking a great meal, and taking care of her husband and kids.

For comments and inquiries about the article visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.motorcyclepartsbin.com">http://www.motorcyclepartsbin.com</a>

Motorcycle Radar Detectors

Standard radar detectors were not built for motorcycles and were never intended to be used on them. Most detectors use an audio device to inform the driver that radar had been detected, and are therefore inappropriate for motorcycle riders because they cannot be heard. Furthermore, most have long cords and poor mounting options, not to mention the fact that they are not weatherproof. As both motorcycles and radar detectors have become more popular, however, the demand for motorcycle radar detectors has increased dramatically.

Manufacturers now produce cordless detectors with an earphone jack so that the rider can hear alerts. For instance, BEL has released a model specifically for motorcycles, while Escort and Whistler make models with earphone jacks.

Important considerations when shopping for radar include band detection, distance of detection, ability to send a jamming signal, and, of course, price. In addition to these concerns, anyone interested in purchasing a motorcycle radar detector should keep the following in mind: Does the detector come with an ear jack? Is it weatherproof, or can it be enclosed in a weatherproof container? Is the detector mountable?

The Escort Passport 8500 X50 is popular for motorcycle riders. In addition to an ear phone jack, this model is highly sensitive to X-band, K-band and Ka-band radars. When set in its ""ExpertMeter"" mode, this model allows the rider to see up to eight radar signals, as well as their individual bands and strengths, simultaneously. In addition, the display brightness settings include a ""dark mode"" for stealth use. One method of installation for this model is to tie the 8500 into the rider's helmet speakers using a common universal stereo mini-plug patch cord. The unit can be mounted with suction cups to the windshield.

Although the niche for motorcycle radar detectors continues to grow, most models will still lack in at least one area. Thankfully, most detector retailers sell attachments that allow cordless models to be converted for use with motorcycles.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.e-radardetectors.com">Radar Detectors Info</a> provides comprehensive information on best wholesale and retail motorcycle and cordless radar detectors. Radar Detectors Info is the sister site of <a target="_new" href="http://www.e-defensivedriving.com">Defensive Driving Web</a>.

Frame Slider Design and Selection

Call them crash protectors, crash bobbins, fairing protectors or frame sliders, all these products ultimately seek to do one thing - protect your expensive bodywork or the essential and often expensive structural parts of your motorcycle from damage in the even of a fall or tip-over. The frame slider concept is as old as the proverbial 'crash bar' and today there are as many designs and brands as there are models of bikes. The proliferation of these types of products testify to the success of the idea of providing a sacrificial item to absorb some of the damage in the event of a fall. We are by no means experts on this concept nor were we the first to come up with it, but in this article we hope to provide you with an unbiased view so that you can make an informed decision when you're ready to put down your hard earned cash.

Cost:

Cost of the frame sliders must be appropriate to the items that they are designed to protect. Price is not necessarily the best indicator of quality. Poorly designed frame sliders made of the nicest shiniest materials may not serve their purpose as well as well designed but less 'bling' ones.

Mounting Configurations:

The frame slider must be designed to mount securely onto a strong enough part of the motorcycle so that impact forces can be adequately distributed or absorbed. Here are some popular mounting configurations.

Fairing Mounted Frame Sliders

Sliders that mount onto the fairing with small fairing screws may provide some protection in a minor tip-over but offer very minimal protection in a slide. These sliders are not generally recommended for serious riders.

Frame Mounted Sliders - Direct

The most popular and viable mounting option is directly to a selected strong point of the frame. Sliders with this design offer the most protection and impact force distribution. The installation of this type of slider often require modification of the fairing and in some cases like the Honda VFR800, as extreme as requiring the modification of the coolant bottle. For this reason, many choose the first or the third option as fairing modification can at times be quite intimidating. This option is the most popular for serious sportsriders, amateur and semi-professional racers alike as they provide the best protection for the money. One other thing to consider when choosing these types of sliders is where they will be mounted to.

Many models of sportbikes offer several places to mount them, frame slider manufacturers all have their personal reasons for choosing the mounting location for theirs and many of them make that choice for the wrong reasons. An example is cost - a location that offers a two short bolt mounting location is cheaper than one using a long through the engine bolt choice. The former being a much weaker location. If you own an SV650 you will know what we mean. Another choice is the use of a bracket so that cutting of the fairing is avoided - see below (Frame Mounted Frame Sliders-Through-Engine Bolts).

Frame Mounted Sliders - In-Direct

To address some of the concerns owners may have about modification of the fairing, some manufacturers have opted for a design that allows for the slider to mount onto an offset bracket that then mounts onto the frame. This offset introduces a whole new set of variables into the mix. Depending on the degree of the offset, impact forces now include amplified torque stresses which will be applied to the frame mounting points. Offset brackets will need to be of beefier construction, but not so beefy as to stay intact during an impact while severely damaging the frame mounting points. This is often the most costly type of slider configuration as most brackets require ingenious CNC work and design. In some situations employment of a bracket is a calculated risk, in others it is just not feasible. No cut sliders are attractive to most bikers so do your homework and ask the manfacturer questions before you buy them.

Frame Mounted Frame Sliders-Through-Engine Bolts

The third mounting option found only on certain models of bikes like the Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom, TL1000S, SV650 and Ducati models of bikes allow for use of the long, through-the-engine mounting bolt. This method is by far the strongest available as impact forces are allowed to be distributed over a much larger area. This is also the second more costly design as these long bolts are quite expensive to manufacture. The design must be structurally strong enough not to break off when encountering the various types of impact forces but not so strong that these forces would be transmitted entirely to and damage the considerably more costly frame mounting points. In other words you want to sacrifice your slider before your fairing and then your frame in that order. It's a delicate balance and there is no sure way to ensure that any one design will accomplish this desired goal.

Frame Slider Material:

The choice of material used for the frame slider should be a balance of the following 3 requirements:

Abrasion Resistance - the material should be hard enough to be able to slow the bike down in a slide and not be totally worn down to the bolt half way through a slide

Structural Strength - the material should be strong but not brittle and snap off too easily on impact

Energy Absorption-the material used should have some energy absorbing properties but not be so hard that all impact forces are transmitted to the mounting points or fasteners (solid steel or aluminum materials are examples of non-energy absorbing materials).

Most high quality frame sliders today are made of some kind of nylon or other for energy absorption and with aluminum inserts for strengthening of the fastening points. The range of nylon types, with different levels of abrasion resistance and "brittleness" used is also quite varied.

Fasteners and Components:

Quality of materials used, aesthetics and quality of workmanship should also be considered when choosing the right frame slider for your bike. Look for high quality anodized steel bolts. Black non-coated bolts will rust in a week or less depending where you live. Stainless steel washers between your steel bolts and aluminum inserts in the slider also reduce potential corrosion problems. Socket head cap screws offer the smallest footprint allowing for a thicker and stronger slider dimensions and are generally much more expensive then regular hex-head screws. Nyloc lock nuts where applicable are another added safety feature. True, these are all minor considerations in the overall scheme of things but they all add up to the cost of manufacturing. One last thing to remember is to always try to use some form of thread lock compound like Loctite and to properly torque the mounting bolts to the manufacturer's recommendations. If you're not sure check out our torque reference guide.

CONCLUSION:

Where does that leave you the consumer? Well, we all don't want to think about the day when we will be able to justify the purchase of frame sliders. The reality is that as long as bikes have only two wheels, you can expect them to fall over sooner or later. Frame sliders are one of the surest and least expensive ways to ensure some protection for the expensive or sometimes irreplaceable parts of your bike. After all some protection is still better than none. Think about broken rear brake levers, gear shifters or even worse - punctured radiators or coolant bottles, when you're miles from civilization. The rule is the same in our opinion no matter what you're spending your money on - buy the best you can afford and don't be afraid to ask the manufacturer why their product is better than the plethora of other brands available out there. Any good manufacturer will be very clear about what differentiates their products form others so that you will be able to make the correct purchase decision.

Author is the manufacturer and distibutor for US based frame slider and accessories company. <a target="_new" href="http://www.motovationUSA.com">http://www.motovationUSA.com</a>

Fuel Cells Motorcycles, Trucks, Tanks, ATVs and Fire Hazards from Heat Exchanges

We have heard a whole lot of talk about fuel cells and of course it is a worthy endeavor. Portable generators, cars, transportation industry, Power generators, Ships, etc. can benefit. However in a mobile application such as a shuttle bus, car, truck, train, tractor, motor scooter or even a Segway air-cushioned platform mover, there is the problem of heat. The heat occurs on transfer of fuel. So if we are talking about a portable application the heat can make steam and the steam can be used for additional power needed also. In an off road application when we are in places of drought and extreme fire hard there is a significant problem which needs to be better addressed with the material sciences to control the heat. Everyone knows that 2-cycle motorcycles get hot and can cause fires if you are not careful.

The hydrogen cell problem with it's temperatures could be significantly worse. In larger vehicles there have been ways to mitigate this, with additional insulation panels, however in a small off road vehicle or ATV, the problem becomes more significant. When I speak of ATV, I mean All-terrain vehicle, not the Fuel Cell term of Advanced Technology Vehicle. At Texas A and M. they are working on just such a project.

When we are talking motorcycles, and ATVs the cooling system is the major obstacle, wouldn't you know it. There is always some hitch and it does appear that this small obstacle is in fact being taken care of through new material sciences and it is critical indeed as we have seen urban heat of five plus degrees within various regions of the US due to concrete and asphalt without one fuel cell car and we know that reciprocal engines of gasoline motors run about 300 or so degrees, which is a lot less than the conversion rate to pure hydrogen? Well these engineering barriers are being pummeled currently as the innovators in America accept the challenge and refuse to go back, such is the nature of the American Spirit, Never ever, ever, ever Give Up. Winston Churchill could have been an American, he certainly talked like one and this current situation could have used such talk. And of course he comes from the same stock as many of us do. Well it appears many University Researchers in this country may just beat President Bush's cautious commitment to bring this technology to the forefront by 2012. We are now seeing the strides of innovation take hold. From the Spinglass Scooters to potential Segway Models.

Now then, the components of these vehicles cannot be made of lightweight composite. Some types of composite unfortunately give off Cyanide Gas when they burn. We of course have been learning this from the F-117 Stealth crashes and the potentiality of the 7E7 half composite airliners. So what material do you make these units out of which is safe for anything from a ride on lawn mower to a laptop computer 90 watt power system. Even Plastics melt and give off some pretty toxic substances? Ceramic Coatings or glass coatings on top of other materials, indeed may be one solution. As a matter of fact this is just about the only known solution for the exhaust and catalyst systems (which run extremely hot and glow inside) in current exhaust systems. Many think it can be applied to the heat issues of hydrogen cells as well and of course after reading many articles and studies in the Ceramics Industry, I believe there is ample opportunity there.

http://www.ceramicindustry.com/CDA/Article...0,27484,00.html

We have been studying these situations for our company in the Mobile Oil Change Business figuring if we cannot change the oil in the future as a business we can replace filters and membranes with re-usable ceramic materials which maybe found in the new technologies associated with fuel cells. But where will all these filters be discharged? After all Glass takes quite a while to decompose rendering it's half life closer than that of uranium to lead, then from Ceramic filter to dirt? Will future archeologists dig up these nifty ceramic filters in old garbage dumps in the decomposed semi-crude oil remenance and wonder what on Earth we used them for and proving that we were indeed a species of significant cognitive worth? As we look at ceramic coatings such as Adsil (google it to learn more) and others we realize that they decrease corrosion from things like the nasty Magnesium Chlorides put on roads in the North during ice and snowstorms.

Will we need to coat the entire car with glass to prevent fire? Will this mean you will wash your car with Windex? Is glass cleaning services a future growth industry then, since more things will be made from glass including much of the coating on a car. Will this foil the efforts of GM, Ford, Honda and Toyota in planned obsolescence? In other words whoever is making the cars, whether it is GM-Ballard partnership, Eaton-Ford Partnership or a Multi-National Foreign Conglomerate of China, Japan, Korea, US then will cars last so long people will buy fewer of them or will the Chinese demand for oil drive the prices of crude up so fast and furious that the whole world will begin to switch to fuel cells at once during a last hurrah of overbearing gas and diesel prices. Cars which last too long mean consumer will not continue to buy new cars which on average now is 3.1 years in the middle class of America. Now do not go out and buy Windex Stock right now. No matter what this is still many years off.

You will see in the future that many companies and even military, NASA and others use ceramic coatings on equipment to prolong life. Corrosion issues are serious in all sectors, including shipping containers, truck chassis, braking systems, railroad, automotive, even a rusty lawn-mower with many plastic parts from your local Home Depot, Lowes or Wal*Mart.

Ceramic coatings even applied at 5 mils are enough to seal the aluminum pores enough to solve basic corrosion problems. Corrosion control is especially important to military equipment after wartime. Sure it provides jobs to make new tanks, humvees and armored personnel carriers, but there maybe budget concerns as well to think about. After all some of the T-34 tanks used by our enemy were how old? Still running, perhaps with corrosion controls of ceramics, the ones left could be put in museums forever? A remainder of the Human Species and her need to wage war, perhaps an innate characteristic which may eventually be bread out of our genome, but probably not likely soon. Hydrogen cell tanks, yes there are many such projects going on now.

What will the routine maintenance service companies look like in the future? How will they maintain their ROIs and Proformas, forward looking statements and spreadsheets, Warren Buffet style balance sheets, quarterly profits and shareholder's equity? These companies to harvest continued cash flow in these cleaning, maintenance and coating industries will need to drastically modify their procedures. As we see from this weeks devastating Hurricane Charley, we need to pay attention to the global warming problems as they are real and when you turn up the heat, the surrounding atmosphere will notice and when it comes to mother nature, she is quite sure of what she is doing.

I hope you have enjoyed this provocative topic and interesting study on Fuel Cells for motorcycles, trucks, trains, tanks, ATVs, ships, etc. as it pertains to global warming, urban heat, Fire Hazards from heat exchanges and risks associated with these new technologies.

The future is going to be a most excellent place to live as long as we pay attention to what we are doing on the way to get there.

"Lance Winslow" - If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; <a target="_new" href="http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs">www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs</a>

How To Make Your Own Vintage Motor Cycle & Automotive Spare Parts

Vintage Car & Motorcycle restoration enthusiasts all share one thing in common...

The difficulty in obtaining obsolete spare parts.

How many times have you tried to find a special part for your restoration project, only to find that it's unobtainable.

For the home restorer on a tight budget, it is actually possible to put money back into your own pocket... real savings can be made by learning a few simple skills. Lets face it, if you are rebuilding or restoring old vintage vehicles then you most likely already have many practical skills & abilities.

You could expand on your valuable practical skills even more.

Take for instance the dozens of mechanical components that need to be rebuild/reconditioned... professional re-builders will charge you quite a lot of money for reconditioning parts, which to all intents & purposes could be carried out in the home workshop at a substantially reduced cost.

You may already have the luxury of a lathe, milling machine and a collection of other associated machines in your workshop.

Cast your mind outside the square for a moment... if you're unable to produce a part by machining parts from a solid billet, then all you need to do is to build a simple gas fired furnace, fabricate some tools, mould boxes, and get hold of some green sand to make your sand moulds, learn some new skills, and you'll be able to melt & pour your own special aluminium & bronze parts.

Then you will be able to machine them in your lathe etc, to produce low cost high quality spare parts... it is possible... many people have been doing this for along time.

Why don't you join this select band of people who've discovered that casting your own metal parts is not that difficult, once you have learnt the basic techniques of the craft.

Once your mini foundry system is up and running, you'll wonder why the heck you didn't discover metal casting years ago.

You can read & learn more about hobby metal casting by visiting: http://www.myhomefoundry.com Where you can download free ebooks, access free foundry directory info, and have a lot of fun learning new skills to add to your practical restoration skills.

Learning about metal casting could open up a whole new dimension & opportunities for you in your home workshop. But you wont know just how much until you take the step to learn. Why not take that step today?

Written by: Col Croucher
Ebook Author and Administrator of:
<a target="_new" href="http://www.myhomefoundry.com">http://www.myhomefoundry.com</a>
Australia

A Convenient Way to Slash Your Gas Bill

&quot;With oil prices spiraling higher almost every day, people are starting to look for alternative modes of transport,&quot; says Michael S. Milstead of Scootertronics. &quot;With scooters, commuters can slash their gas bills and still have an efficient, reliable mode of transport."

With the introduction of four stroke scooters into the market this year even larger savings can be had with these scooters getting 60 to 80 miles per gallon. Four Stroke Scooters are much easier to care for than two stroke scooters with oil added to an oil reserveb just like a car instead of being injected into carb for lubrication. This keeps the carb from getting clooged up plus eliminates the expense of two stroke oil and reduces smoke plus you get a quieter smoother running engine.

The larger 150cc scooters are also making a splach adding the power and speed to to keep up with fast moving traffic. Although150cc scooters are treated like motorcycles where you need a motorcyle license the 49.5cc scooters in most only require a regualr drivers license and no tags in most states.

So if you are looking to slash your gas bills consider a four stroke gas scooter to make your commute not only enjoyable but money saving also.

As the owner and sales rep for <a target="_new" href="http://www.scootertronics.com">www.scootertronics.com</a> Michael Milstead has been providing info and scooters to the public for all kinds of transportation that will give them great savings on thier gas bill each month paying for the scooter in a very short period of time.

Necessity of Motorcycle Parts

If you are one of the many people who consider your bike as invaluable as your family, then we know you're head over heels. We may be judged heavily for this perception but you might even be willing to dump your partner just so you could spend time riding and caring for your bike? though, we hope you are not that obsessed.

Of course, once you've discovered the thrill and speed of the open road, there's really nothing quite alike the exuberance you felt. Eventually, it will not only be a way to travel for you, it becomes a way of life. Many other motorcycle enthusiasts discover these at certain stages after acquiring their motorcycles. You find these dedicated enthusiasts like yourself all over the country.

It's no surprise to know that you would also demand nothing but the best motorcycle parts for your bike. Getting the right motorcycle parts is not only a matter of vanity or style. Necessity is the most important consideration. Once you do not have sturdy replacements for important parts and even accessories like worn brakes, cracked windshield, bent kickstand, you're in trouble. All the more worse if your local parts store has no replacement parts available. Most motorcycle parts should be found not to make your bike look nice and sleek. You simply can't afford to be without these motorcycle parts which are equal to that of our limbs and joints.

You may never know what sort of disaster may arise that would make you realize just how important it is to have extra or replacement motorcycle parts and accessories handy all time. Equally important, too, you have to know where you could easily get the specific parts you need that suits the model of your bike. It is frustrating to find out that the motorcycle parts store in your state doesn't have any of the items you badly need.

Motorcycle parts suppliers can be hard to find in a lot of areas of the country. There may be some that you can find but they may not have stocks on the parts that you need.

With a reverent understanding of these situations, it is good news to report that motorcycle parts industries and retailers have gone online with their motorcycle parts catalogs. Huge selection, large inventory, and convenience are the factors that make shopping for your motorcycle needs online the best way to get exactly what you're looking for.

The Internet has hundreds of catalogs full of any motorcycle parts you may need. As a true biker, you have to be complete with all the motorcycle parts and facilities that will enable you to ride out with the finest bike, sturdy, dependable and lovely piece of machine, too.

Lala C. Ballatan is a 26 year-old Communication Arts graduate, with a major in Journalism. Right after graduating last 1999, she worked for one year as a clerk then became a Research, Publication and Documentation Program Director at a non-government organization, which focuses on the rights, interests and welfare of workers for about four years.

Book reading has always been her greatest passion -- mysteries, horrors, psycho-thrillers, historical documentaries and classics. She got hooked into it way back when she was but a shy kid.

Her writing prowess began as early as she was 10 years old in girlish diaries. With writing, she felt freedom ? to express her viewpoints and assert it, to bring out all concerns -- imagined and observed, to bear witness.

For comments and inquiries about the article visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.motorcyclepartsbin.com">http://www.motorcyclepartsbin.com</a>

Motorcycle Suspension Setup: Getting to Grips with a Black Art

Suspension Set-up: The basics

Whether you are a road rider or a racer correct suspension setup is the key to fast smooth riding and consistent lap times. To get the best out of your bike it needs to be set up for the conditions in which you will be riding. It is considerably easier to set the bike up for the Track as you know what conditions will be like for the next hour or so and thus you can dial in the optimum settings for the that particular situation.

To what extent you change your suspension settings will depend on whether your bike will also have to cope with riding on the road. Unlike Roads Tracks are generally smooth and grippy. So if you are only going to use the bike on the track you have the luxury of fitting harder springs and modifying the fork and shock internals. If you ride on the road as well as the track you will probably want to keep a certain comfort level and concentrate on just optimizing the current equipment

With incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling suffers, which in turn can result in rider fatigue. Lap times can be dramatically slower and in extreme cases safety can be compromised. Hopefully the following guide will help you dial in your suspension for faster and safer riding both on and off the track.

Firstly you will need to check the Fork and Shock sag: this is the amount the forks and rear shock settle under load. To measure it do the following: push down on the forks a number of times to settle them, then mark the stanchion with a felt pen or put a cable tie where the dust seal is sitting. Next ask some for help to lift on the bars so the front wheel is just off the ground and measure the amount the forks have traveled down. This is the static sag (or unladen sag), This can be changed by adjusting the spring preload (more preload = less sag). Repeat the same process for the rear, this time measuring the distance from the wheel spindle to a fixed point on the tail. Now you are ready to begin setting up your suspension. The key is to do it a little at a time and make notes as you go. For road riding start with the wet track settings and work from there.

Basic Setup: Check the following

Forks sag 18-22 mm for dry track, 23-27mm for rain.

Shock sag 8-10mm for dry track, 10-14mm for rain.

Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and sprocket wear will be increased.

Proper tire balance and pressure, starting with 30psi front and 32psi rear (both dry and wet).

Steering head bearings and torque specifications - if too loose, there will be head shake at high speeds.

Front-end alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If out of alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will suffer.

Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry.

Stock Suspension Tuning Limitations

Manufacturers plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, they use valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, Kayaba, Showa) matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs.

Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring rate with increased compression distance. This means that the valving is correct for only one part of the spring's travel, all other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring, it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate spring that matches the valving for the combined weight of the bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended.

Remember!

? Always make small adjustments, more is not always better.

? Always keep notes of what you have done.

? Suspension tuning is an art - be patient

Mark Thompson has spent the last 20 Years Racing motorcycles and managing Race Teams. He now runs the <a target="_new" href="http://www.trackbikes.co.uk">Trackbikes</a> website.

Mini Moto Tips

These are some quick adjustments and tips for the B1 liquid cooled minimoto that I have found helpful.

Extra heat protection:

To protect the bike I've put some aluminium tape on the inside of the fairing at the closest point to the exhaust and on the underside of the fuel tank. I?ve done this because the engine gets so hot I wanted to protect the fairing from melting, and it doesn't hurt to protect the fuel tank for the same reasons!

My cooling system tips:

When you run out of cooling liquid for your B1 rep, use is distilled water which is available at your local garage, add some food colouring to it so that you can easily tell the level and away you go.

Only fill the reservoir to a quarter full, this is easily enough coolant and it leaves room for the pressure.

Once you have filled the coolant reservoir, there is often air locks in the system. To get rid of these start the bike and allow it to warm up, then bounce the bike (gently) on its back tyre with the bike vertical. Do this a few times, this should get rid of the air locks in the system and prevent overheating. The coolants level may need to be topped up now.

Where not to ride:

Hi just bought my new B1 air cooled from you guys. Thanks it's a great bike. A quick word of advice for your other customers. DO NOT RIDE YOUR MINI MOTO ON THE ROAD. My friend (who also rides a mini moto, but on tracks where they are supposed to be ridden!) is a police man (boooo!) and the law is very strict:

The driver or rider of a motorised board or cycle on a road could face heavy fines, endorsement of licence, disqualification and in the case of dangerous driving, up to 2 years imprisonment.

Remember that the term road includes not only a carriageway but also pavements and verges and also any highway which encompasses footpaths, bridleways and by-ways.

It can also include privately owned roads to which the public have access and has in some cases included car parks?

Car park warriors beware!!!???

Here's a good tip. Before riding your mini moto you will need to make sure that your wheels and chain are aligned. Here's how. Loosen the bolts on the back wheel so that you can move it. Place a piece of perfectly straight wood (I used a meter stick) up against the front wheel. When the front wheel is straight the meter stick should be flush against both the front of the tyre and the back. Then it's a simple case of lining up the back wheel. The chain should now also be straight.

Changing the gearing on your mini moto is simple. A bigger front sprocket combined with a smaller rear sprocket creates a smaller ratio, this means that the mini moto will have better accelelaration but less top spead. A smaller front sprocket with a bigger back sprocket will give your mini moto a better top speed but slower acceleration.

Here are the possible variations of gearing: The lower the ratio the faster acceleration. The higher ratio, the better the top speed.

8/54 6.75>1
8/56 7>1
8/58 7.25>1
8/60 7.5>1
7/54 7.714285714>1
8/62 7.75>1
7/56 8>1
8/64 8>1
7/56 8>1
8/66 8.25>1
7/58 8.285714286>1
8/68 8.5>1
7/60 8.571428571>1
8/70 8.75>1
7/62 8.857142857>1
8/72 9>1
6/54 9>1
7/64 9.142857143>1
8/74 9.25>1
6/56 9.333333333>1
7/66 9.428571429>1
8/76 9.5>1
6/58 9.666666667>1
7/68 9.714285714>1
8/78 9.75>1
6/60 10>1
7/70 10>1
7/72 10.28571429>1
6/62 10.33333333>1
7/74 10.57142857>1
6/64 10.66666667>1
7/76 10.85714286>1
6/66 11>1
7/78 11.14385714>1
6/68 11.33333333>1
6/70 11.66666667>1
6/72 12>1
6/74 12.33333333>1
6/76 12.66666667>1
6/78 13>1

I tried 7/56 with my B1 Rep at GP Karting, I think that this is just about right for that track as it has lotts of tight corners. Might go to Stretton soon so I can try my 7/68 setup. This should be good for the straights however it may take a while to get up to speed!!

Matt Tong has been importing and riding Mini Motos for two years. For expert advice and Mini Moto information please visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.minimotosandmore.com">http://www.minimotosandmore.com</a>

Ghost Minimoto Moto GP Reps ? What Are They?

What are Mini moto's? A Minimoto is a miniature version of a real GP racing motorcycle; it just doesn't go as fast as one. There pocket bikes are available in many different makes and styles, many of which look just like real racing bikes but in a miniture version such as those found on GhostRacingSeries website.

Who Makes Minimoto's? There is many Mini Moto models and manufacturers. The more expensive pocketbikes and professional bikes are built in Czechoslovakia by Blata and GRC of Italy. Other well known brands are Polini and ZPF.

Recently manufacturers from China have made a big difference to minimoto racing sport. With mass production making minimoto's more affordable and much more popular. Here in the UK minimoto racing is one of the fastest growing sports. We occasionally hear people say that the Chinese bikes are rubbish and quickly fall apart however companies like http://www.ghostracingseries.com supply exceptionally high quality replica minimoto's. These minimoto's start from just ?150 each!

Styles of Minimoto's? As the market grows, lots of trends are set. Amongst the most popular is the Ghost Racing Series Moto GP reps. They come in various styles including Rizla Moto Gp Mini moto, Camel Moto Gp Mini moto, Telefonica Moto Gp Mini moto, Repsol Moto Gp Mini moto, Shell Adavance Moto Gp Mini moto.

Whats different with the Ghost Racing Series minimoto's? Ghost Minimoto's come with the following extras: Over ?100 of Fitted extra's come as standard including: Performace Exhaust ? Expansion Chamber + Polished Silencer K&N Style Performance Air Filter Upgraded Heavy Duty Chain & Sprockets Race Quality Reed Valves Uprated Brake Calipers + Thicker Brake Discs Upgraded Forks with Alloy Wheel Clamps High Quality Welding & Stronger Frame Alloy Brake Levers Alloy Yorks High Compression Engine with 19mm Transfer Ports for High Revs Soft Grip Performance Hand Grips High Quality Fairings Painted Hubs & Polished Rims

http://www.GhostRacingSeries.com

<a target="_new" href="http://www.GhostRacingSeries.com">http://www.GhostRacingSeries.com</a>

Motorcycle Suspension Setup: Getting to Grips with a Black Art

Suspension Set-up: The basics

Whether you are a road rider or a racer correct suspension setup is the key to fast smooth riding and consistent lap times. To get the best out of your bike it needs to be set up for the conditions in which you will be riding. It is considerably easier to set the bike up for the Track as you know what conditions will be like for the next hour or so and thus you can dial in the optimum settings for the that particular situation.

To what extent you change your suspension settings will depend on whether your bike will also have to cope with riding on the road. Unlike Roads Tracks are generally smooth and grippy. So if you are only going to use the bike on the track you have the luxury of fitting harder springs and modifying the fork and shock internals. If you ride on the road as well as the track you will probably want to keep a certain comfort level and concentrate on just optimizing the current equipment

With incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling suffers, which in turn can result in rider fatigue. Lap times can be dramatically slower and in extreme cases safety can be compromised. Hopefully the following guide will help you dial in your suspension for faster and safer riding both on and off the track.

Firstly you will need to check the Fork and Shock sag: this is the amount the forks and rear shock settle under load. To measure it do the following: push down on the forks a number of times to settle them, then mark the stanchion with a felt pen or put a cable tie where the dust seal is sitting. Next ask some for help to lift on the bars so the front wheel is just off the ground and measure the amount the forks have traveled down. This is the static sag (or unladen sag), This can be changed by adjusting the spring preload (more preload = less sag). Repeat the same process for the rear, this time measuring the distance from the wheel spindle to a fixed point on the tail. Now you are ready to begin setting up your suspension. The key is to do it a little at a time and make notes as you go. For road riding start with the wet track settings and work from there.

Basic Setup: Check the following

Forks sag 18-22 mm for dry track, 23-27mm for rain.

Shock sag 8-10mm for dry track, 10-14mm for rain.

Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and sprocket wear will be increased.

Proper tire balance and pressure, starting with 30psi front and 32psi rear (both dry and wet).

Steering head bearings and torque specifications - if too loose, there will be head shake at high speeds.

Front-end alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If out of alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will suffer.

Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry.

Stock Suspension Tuning Limitations

Manufacturers plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, they use valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, Kayaba, Showa) matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs.

Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring rate with increased compression distance. This means that the valving is correct for only one part of the spring's travel, all other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring, it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate spring that matches the valving for the combined weight of the bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended.

Remember!

? Always make small adjustments, more is not always better.

? Always keep notes of what you have done.

? Suspension tuning is an art - be patient

Mark Thompson has spent the last 20 Years Racing motorcycles and managing Race Teams. He now runs the <a target="_new" href="http://www.trackbikes.co.uk">Trackbikes</a> website.

5 Steps To A Better Motorcycle Loan With A Better Credit Score

It is common knowledge that motorcycle lenders base high importance on your FICO credit scores when approving motorcycle loans. However, what many people overlook is that their FICO credit score can highly impact the term on their motorcycle loan along with the interest rate that is assigned to the motorcycle loan.

In order to gain better motorcycle loan rates it is important that you think of your FICO credit score as a picture of how risky you are to the lender. Your FICO score is essentially a benchmark which lenders use to grade you and assign a risk to you when applying for a motorcycle loan. Since factors about your credit change on a daily basis so can your FICO credit score.

The below 5 steps are designed to help ensure you improve your creditworthiness as your credit score changes. Ultimately these steps should help you obtain better motorcycle loan rates in the future.

Watch Your Debt ? Keep your account balances below 30% of your available credit limit. This is especially true with your credit card because many motorcycle lenders see credit card debt as more risky. If you have a credit card with a $5,000 limit, you should try to keep the balance owed below $1500 when you apply for a motorcycle loan.

Make Your Payment On-time - Paying your current credit bills on-time is one of the biggest factors that contributes to a higher FICO score. Typically when motorcycle lenders see potential customers that do not pay their bills on-time then they either decline them or issue a motorcycle loan at a much higher interest rate. Late payments, collections and bankruptcies have the greatest negative effect on your credit score and how lenders rate you when getting a motorcycle loan.

Establish Credit Early ? Time is very important part of improving your FICO score. Therefore, it is recommended that you start building credit early. Getting one or two credit cards can significantly help build credit. However, the key to this strategy is keeping your purchases small and frequent and paying off the balance every month on time. When establishing credit you should also keep the oldest account on your credit report open in order to lengthen your period of active credit use. The length of your credit history can make a big difference in getting approved for a motorcycle loan.

Avoid Excessive Credit Inquiries ? A credit inquiry normally happens when you apply for credit. If you have a large number of credit inquiries in a short time period many motorcycle lenders see this as a negative since it affects your FICO score. Therefore, when you are applying for credit or shopping for motorcycle loans be careful how many times your credit is accessed. Be advised that sometimes motorcycle dealerships will pre-screen you by asking you for your driver licenses and social security number. Normally this results in a credit inquiry on your credit report. Be prudent in shopping for credit and motorcycle loans.

Check Your Credit Regularly ? In today's age it is easy to get online to check your credit. Checking your free credit report regularly is very important because it can help you uncover inaccuracies that are affecting your FICO credit score. Don't let your credit health suffer due to inaccurate information. If you find an inaccuracy on your credit report contact the creditor associated with the account or the credit reporting agencies to correct it immediately.

Copyright (c) 2005, by Jay Fran This article may be freely distributed as long as the copyright, author's information and the following active live link with anchored text is published with the article:

<a target="_new" href="http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com">Motorcycle Loans ?Bankruptcy Motorcycle Financing ? Used Motorcycle Loans</a>

About The Author: <BR> Jay Fran is a successful author at <a target="_new" href="http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com">http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com</a> - A comprehensive resource to compare low interest rate motorcycle financing, military motorcycle loans, after bankruptcy motorcycle loans and new & used online motorcycle buying tips for Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda and more.